Redwood bonsai trees make excellent centerpieces or backdrop specimens in the garden, all thanks to their elongate, thin, erect trunks that rise incredibly tall. This precise quality makes them appropriate for large-sized bonsai trees. Along with that, their ability to tolerate heavy pruning makes them favored among bonsai lovers.
What’s even more impressive is that redwood trees have been around for years, making them different and unique pieces to keep around. No matter where you place them, they carry a majestic and antique vibe that adds appeal to any space.
These stunning trees are recognized for their red leaves and brown bark that grace the fall season. But those colorful features can only be embraced if you tend them properly. No need to worry, I’ll show you how to care for these magnificent trees with a step-by-step guide.
Read on to know:
Environmental preference for redwood bonsai.
How to re-pot redwood bonsai?
How to prune and wire redwood bonsai?
How to get rid of pests and diseases?
And, where can you find them for sale?
So let’s dive in;
Basic characteristics of redwood bonsai:
| Characteristic | Description |
|---|---|
| Scientific Name | Sequoia or Sequoioideae |
| Family | Cupressaceae |
| Native to | the Pacific coast of North America, and China. |
| Tree Type | Coniferous evergreen |
| Mature height | 200 to 240 feet high |
| Mature width | 10 to 15 feet |
| Leaves | scale-like leaves with alternating patterns. |
| Fruits | Reddish-brown cones and each contains between 150 and 250 seeds. |
| Flowers | In the wild, they produce flowers in the rainy season but as a bonsai it’s rare. |
| Maintenance level | Easy |
Choosing the right redwood bonsai tree:
Most people choose bonsai according to the visual point of view, visual appeal is indeed important, but I would advise you to consider some other factors before picking one. For example, a frost-feared tree should not be your first choice if you live in a colder area unless you want it to live with constant stress.
Fortunately, redwood doesn’t get heavily affected by the environment, but there are still other factors you need to keep in mind. Those are;
Size:
Even though bonsai means miniature form, redwood bonsai still falls in the category of bigger bonsai, so clearly you need a bigger space for your tree.
Growers expertise:
The tree is hardy and understanding its care guidance is easy. But I have witnessed this particular tree grows more than 1m per year if the atmosphere favors them. So, pruning will be up on your tending list.
Getting a healthy plant:
Growing redwood from seeds can take years and buying a grown one is much more easier, but let me tell you how you can find the healthiest one.
- First, check the branches for cross and even distribution.
- All leaves should be vibrant in color ( if you are buying it online one or two leaves can be damaged due to shipping-related issues but tending them for a few days will easily bring back their health).
- The trunk should be smooth without any abnormal bumps.
Types:
While there were many various kinds of redwood trees earlier, there are exclusively three species presently living. These three kinds that remain are among the strongest trees at present and all of them are suitable for bonsai.
Let’s take a closer peek at the various kinds of redwood trees you can grow as Bonsai trees now.
Coast redwood:
These amazing trees grow somewhat narrow trunks. Coast redwoods are the second most familiar redwood species for Bonsai tree practice, though the wood of this individual tree is intensely challenging and hard to shape.
Giant Sequoia:
This individual species is the least used when it comes to Bonsai tree practice. This is probably because giant sequoias are even more stubborn than coast redwood trees, making them almost unimaginable to shape or style. But, they still create an outstanding model in any pot.
Dawn redwood:
The most favored redwood tree utilized in Bonsai tree practice. One of the main reasons is that they are deciduous, altering colors in the fall relying on their overall health.
Redwood bonsai care tips:
Too hot or cold regions are not ideal for redwood bonsai growth even though they are outdoor bonsai. On the other hand, the toughest part of taking care of these bonsai is controlling their growth. Redwood can grow more than one meter annually so you will be pruning and shaping your bonsai frequently throughout the year.
So being a large outdoor specimen, it might be too much for you to handle as a beginner, but here’s my full-proof care guide which will help you to understand your tree’s needs.
Watering redwood bonsai:
Giant Sequoia does best when the soil gets dry before getting another drink, but dawn and coast redwoods are water-loving plants. Being from the Pacific coast allows them to endure moist soil.
As a general rule of thumb, you can water the tree daily and even more in mid-summer. But do not abide by any specific rule or routine. Observe your tree and provide accordingly.
But you can use the watering technique I have been using to determine and understand my tree’s watering needs.
- Always keep in mind moist loving plants don’t mean they can survive in wet soil for too long.
- The soil you are using is important to decide the frequency of watering. If your soil is too sandy, it might even need water more than once per day (it’s normal).
- For regions with drier summers should use a humid tray or spray water over the foliage from time to time.
- As the tree needs active detection, you can consider investing in a type of moisture meter that you can stick in the soil 24/7 to make your work much easier. These kinds of moisture meter changes color so a quick glace of your will say the condition of the soil.
Temperature and humidity preference:
Redwood bonsai trees can handle temperatures over 100° Fahrenheit but they need protection from harsh sun exposure with some cloth or any kind of shade.
But redwoods do not endure freezing or temperatures that are below 32°F. Revealing your redwood bonsai to freezing temperatures may result in the stems or roots dying back due to freezing.
For owners with cold regions can bring the tree inside but only for a few days as the tree also need sunlight to survive. Redwood, being a hardy plant can survive in shade but imbalanced growth won’t give an appealing look.
On the other hand, these tree needs lots of humidity and indoors are mostly dry, so you need to use a humidity tray to keep constant moisture around the foliage.
If you have a sun-facing bigger window in your bathroom, you can keep it there in winter so it can get humidity and sunlight at the same time.
Light requirements for redwood bonsai:
Along with being water-loving, redwood bonsai is sun-loving as well. These trees love being in direct sun for more than six hours. But keep in mind, in the hotter regions they need protection, a cloth shade is enough though. If the tree is living under the sun in the hottest part of the day, the barks and foliage get affected the most. If you leave the tree under the direct midday sun after watering, it will definitely leave the tree with lots of burning spots.
Opt for morning or evening sunlight for best results.
Re-potting redwood bonsai:
Choosing the right pot:
Bonsai pots play an important role, as they need to meet specific demands of the art form and blend well with the specific bonsai. For instance, dark brown pots fit well with the color of the bark of dawn redwood. In this case, a glazed bonsai pot will be too dominant for the tree. The pot’s role should be to accentuate the features of the tree.
Other than the visual appeals a pot must have proper drainage and wiring holes, proper width, and depth. Generally, the depth of the pot should be equivalent to the diameter of the trunk slightly above soil level.
Preparing the right soil mix:
The soil medium for re-potting that I have noticed worked best is a ratio of 50% organic nutrient-rich, 25% perlite, 20% coconut coir, 3% compost, and 2% fertilizer mix. Using perlite to the soil mix upgrades drainage quality, and coir holds moistness like a sponge and maintains the soil moisture that is ideal for your redwood. I know it might sound like a lot but once you get familiar with the mix, it will be easier with time.
When to re-pot redwood bonsai?
The roots of a dawn and coast redwood tree expand fast and aggressively, specifically when they are in their young phase. So re-potting becomes extremely necessary for the tree to endure when living in a pot.
Re-pot your redwood bonsai every two years before spring when new growth initiates. Mature trees can be re-potted every three years.
But like watering, do not abide by any proper routine. Root growths are more prominent if they get a good atmosphere around them. Notice the drainage holes, if roots are coming out or peeking from there, indicating they covered the pot already and need a new and bigger pot.
You can use the same pot, but only after vigorous root pruning.
Again a reminder to use rapid-draining bonsai soil to evade root rot.
How to re-pot redwood bonsai?
- Your redwood bonsai tree should be removed altogether from the old pot and the entire root system should be clear from the soil around it. To do this you can tease the soil with a root rake and use a chopstick to remove the old soil around the roots.
- After the root is clear from the soil you will get a clear view of the root growth, they are prepared to prune. Deep root pruning doesn’t mean you can leave it bald, only take 30% of the root mass.
- To dodge the chances of quick water and soil getaway use a mesh over the drainage holes.
- Spread a layer of pebble or any kind of draining substance at the bottom of the pot and a layer of potting mix over it. If you use the potting mix I have recommended, you can skip the pebble part at the bottom layer and use the mix as it is. The level of the potting mix should be enough to elevate the same peak it was earlier in.
- After setting the tree, cover the gaps with more potting mixture. Gently press around the soil to remove air pockets and keep the tree in place.
- You can place the pot over a tub of water to satisfy its thirst or you can use moss on the surface of the soil to hold a high moisture level.
Fertilizing redwood bonsai:
Redwood bonsai generally doesn’t require fertilizer but container-living tree needs it. In the wild, the roots of the tree grow deep enough to collect nutrients from the ground, but this is not the case for your tree.
Fertilization is important when tending redwood bonsai plants, primarily those cultivated from seeds or cuttings. Doing this permits them to develop a few years quicker than developing naturally.
For best impacts, fertilize your bonsai in the growing season.
Regular-purpose fertilizer is enough to tend the species, but some extra boost can be provided by nitrogen-riched fertilizer when they are young.
Pruning redwood bonsai:
For new redwoods, removing injured, infected, and dead stems and foliage should be enough.
Branches that have no sign of bud production should be cut off.
Parts of the tree that appears to have mildew or other fungus formation should be trimmed out and disposed of. You have to disinfect the pruner you are using before touching other parts of the tree for pruning.
For bigger and more mature bonsai with thicker branches, it is best to employ a fine pruning saw and operate a three-cut method for such branches. In this method, you need to cut midway through the bonsai branch’s base.
Create the double cut by sawing via the whole bonsai branch, letting the big part of the bonsai branch drop.
Cutting stems at an angle of 45 degrees to the direction of the branch is ideal, this angled cut benefits the tree by preventing water from pooling at the cut site.
Wiring and training redwood bonsai:
Wiring doesn’t need any specific time but from personal experience, I will advise you to wire redwood bonsai around November when the tree is in its dormant phase and clean from leaves. Wiring is an art and having a clean view will help you to determine which parts need training.
The wires can be left for a whole season but be careful not to leave bite marks as they are extremely fast-growing trees.
To wire;
- Insert the wire into the soil close to the trunk, the nearer the better, as the wire will contact the lower trunk closely. Be gentle, you can hurt the roots if move heavy-handed.
- Keep a 45-degree tilt and begin wiring it upwards. The precise tilt will form the essential spacing.
- Use a wire cutter to cut the wire. Wire cutters are sharper and can achieve a neat cut without any struggle or chance of damaging the tree.
- After wiring, they are now prepared to twist. Gradually curve the tree to a preferred shape without putting too much stress.
Tips:
Some parts of the tree can grow faster than other parts. That happens because of sunlight reach. So monitor those parts cause they can leave bite marks earlier than other parts. In that case, you can only remove those wires and leaves the rest to set into their new position.
Redwood bonsai Pests and Diseases prevention:
Pests:
Unfortunately, redwood trees are not resistant to pests. There are several sorts of pests that typically affect redwood trees, including aphids, scale insects, and beetles.
Aphids:
Aphids are tiny, soft-bodied pests that suck on the fluid of redwood bonsai. They construct territories underneath redwood tree leaves and can be extremely dangerous if left long unnoticed.
They can be determined by their pale green color and by the honeydew, which can construct a sticky mess on the leaves and stems of trees.
Scales:
Scale insects are another kind of pest that affects redwood trees. They are tiny, flat, round insects that hook themselves to the leaves and branches of trees. They are responsible for the yellowing and deformation of the leaves.
Beetles:
Bark beetles are also a prominent issue for redwood trees. These insects stay on the internal bark of the tree, suck on it, and stop the tree’s capacity to soak moisture and nutrients. They can harm the bark and force the tree to become vulnerable and less able to resist other pests.
Solution:
Right watering and fertilizing are important to keep your tree fit and strong. Frequent pruning is also crucial, as it allows the clearing of dead or diseased branches which can tempt pests. If you do detect any symptoms of pests on your tree, immediately use pesticides or horticultural oils.
Disease:
Redwood Canker:
Reddish-brown dead limbs and tip and branch die-back denote redwood canker. These cankers, which make the tree weakened and stressed redwoods, Pitch or orange spore masses may exude from infected places, and shorter branches and twigs often die back.
Appropriate cultural methods and good air circulation help to control the redwood canker. Prune and dispose of infected and destroyed branches to manage the disease.
Decay Fungi:
Injured redwood trees are gullible to wood decay fungi, which usually affect old trees.
To prevent wood decay, shield trees from wounds and prune dead and infected stems.
Extra care tips for different seasons:
Summer:
- Even if the tree is not most active during summer, the soil gets dry rapidly because of the temperature. If they require water two times a day, try to provide it in the morning and afternoon, so the soil will have enough time to soak the moisture and reach the root system.
- During summer the growth can be uncontrollable so try not to fertilize this time.
Winter:
- They usually require the least amount of water during winter, only check for soil, and don’t let it dry completely.
- Redwood bonsai is most sensitive during winter, they crave for utmost protection from the winter breeze. If you have a greenhouse or any unheated room you can place them there.
Spring and Autumn:
- During this time the tree is most active and needs regular observation, especially for water needs. Look at least twice a day if the soil dries out.
Facing and fixing common issues:
Needle drop:
The Dawn redwood bonsai is one of the few trees that let fall down the needles and shoot in fall. Then the Dawn redwood goes dormant and sprouts out vigorously in spring again.
That kind of needle loss in autumn is totally normal and no reason for worry.
Your bonsai need lots of water. In midsummer, on burning days, it may occur that the bonsai soil dries out entirely if not poured in time. Then the needles fast parch up too. After that, they start to fall. Just water the bonsai nicely and wait a couple of weeks. Keep your patience and it will revive gradually.
Phytophthora Root Rot:
Phytophthora root rot is driven by a soil-borne organism. When first infected, the coast redwood’s leafage may wither, yellow, and dry out but stay on the tree. In the next step, it slowly affects the roots, which restricts its capacity to soak needed amounts of water. Ultimately, the whole tree will turn brown and die back. If detected early enough, phytophthora root rot’s existence in the soil may be handled with the application of a fungicide enriched with potassium phosphate.
Conclusion:
If you are acquainted with the enjoyment of growing bonsai, raising Redwood is a solid must. Dawn Redwood can be cultivated indoors or outdoors, and despite having evergreen foliage, it is deciduous.
This indicates that its needles will shed during the winter season and this is what causes this tree to be completely unique from other sorts of Bonsai trees.
It’s truthfully fairly straightforward to grow one if you have some basic knowledge about this tree species, and with the right learning, tips, and tools you can help your Dawn Redwood flourish.
I hope this article was extremely easy to understand and delivered you with numerous great information.
